The Workers Behind Your Brand.

Do you know how the workers in your factory are treated?  For example are they allowed to join other workers in a trade union?  

Forming or joining a trade union to protect the interest of themselves and colleagues is a fundamental global human right as set out by the United Nations Universal Declaration of Human Rights.  It's something I am passionate about and in Fashion Entrepreneurs Academy (my group coaching programme) I only advocate manufacturers that uphold their workers rights and treat them fairly.

The trade unions are empowered to negotiate with employers in “collective bargaining”….basically this just means that the union negotiate with employers (collectively) on behalf of the workers for things like salaries, equalities, human rights, fairness, responsibilities, working hours, working conditions, sustainability etc. to arrive at a collective agreement that will form the basis of the employment relationship. 

Collective bargaining involves a specific process of joint decision making between employers and the trade unions.  It over-rules government regulation, individual contracts and unilateral decisions of employers.

The right to collective bargaining is vital for trade unions and in 2008 collective bargaining was recognised by the European Court of Human Rights.   Good news for workers ??……You would think!

….However, only a small percentage of global garment workers are union members and even when unions do exist, sometimes they are set up by the factory managers, only to please their clients.  These are known as Yellow Unions and are dominated by the employer. 

Millions of workers worldwide are denied union membership and managers often adopt “union-busting” tactics such as intimidation, abuse, violence or even murder to prevent their workers becoming unionised.

Despite the fact that freedom of association and collective bargaining are protected as a constitutional right some governments allow employers to disregard it so that they can attract foreign investment.   For example, a lot of companies like to produce their goods in countries like China and Indonesia because these governments are well-known for preventing the unions raising labour costs.

In some countries the governments impose restrictions, arrest organisers or intimidate and abuse any worker who tries to form or join a trade union.

In Bangladesh some garment workers were warned that if they tried to form a union they would be handed over to the police.

China’s Trade Union Law technically provides all workers access to collective bargaining rights however  it is not implemented or enforced. 

In Central America violent suppression of union activity has a long history in the garment industry, especially in countries like Hoduras, El Salvador and Guatemala.

Trade unions in the US have more or less been wiped out since the 80’s and sadly even the  International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) no longer exists.  Therefore now only 10% of US workers are members of a union.

Since 1979 trade union membership in Great Britain has more than halved and replaced by a flexible labour market, resulting in millions working in the ‘gig economy’ in insecure, low wage jobs.  

One  tactic that unscrupulous British employers used during the pandemic was the “firing and rehiring” of staff on worse pay, longer hours and fewer benefits.  British companies even unilaterally alter staff contracts without obtaining collective agreement from the unions.

The hourly rate for garment workers in many countries is not enough to live on and it’s even an issue in developed economies.  In the UK, only a few years ago in Leicester garment workers were being paid £3.50 an hour,  less than half the UK's legal minimum wage.

Some large fashion brands are taking steps to protect workers’ rights by signing a Global Framework Agreement and hopefully more will follow.  However with so many workers being denied true representation, a collective voice and bargaining power,  there is unlikely to be a positive change in the global fashion industry unless more people speak up.

If you are passionate about sourcing manufacturers that support workers rights or to continue the discussion with likeminded designers join the waitlist for Fashion Entrepreneurs Academy:

CLICK HERE TO JOIN THE WAITLIST FOR FASHION ENTREPRENEURS ACADEMY